Wednesday, October 1, 2008

The Fort


Snow fell overnight, the first of a long winter north of the Arctic Circle. In spite of the dirt patches worn by the snowmachines, the Ft. Yukon residents are not unhappy. It means that trips to outlying villages are easy across the frozen tundra and lakes and the flurry of seasonal jobs is ending. Gas is about $7.50/gallon even though the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge is spittin' distance and Prudoe Bay is closer than Anchorage. Inspite of that, everyone is digging out the snowmachines and putting away the 4-wheelers. Nothing like seeing a dog perched up behind someone on a narrow snowmachine seat, ears flying out and nostrils flaring.

Ft. Yukon has a bad reputation for drinking, shooting and domestic violence. But just like any other community, there are some wonderful hard-working people here, too. There are lots of churches and lots of community activities and when there's a birth, death or wedding, everyone goes.


I went for a well deserved walk outside today in clear air and cold temperatures. The community is huge and spread out along the Yukon River. Homes are log or frame and there are still quite a few dog teams staked out waiting for deeper snow. A sensory postcard is the smell of wood smoke in the crisp air that stings your nostrils when you inhale, the drone of chainsaws, generators and snowmachines that are a constant backdrop to the views of sparkling frozen branches in the early twilight. Winter is here for the next 8 months.


I'm here teaching 7 kids how to pass the High School Graduation Qualifying Exam. The 7 kids came from outlying villages and have chosen to come to this Academy. We spend the day doing math, writing, reading and learning test-taking strategies. I plan in about 3 or 4 movement "games" every day so the kids get a chance to move around. They've been working hard so far. I'm staying in the VocTech building. Next door is a dorm with a large family room with cable TV and dorm rooms on either side for the boys and girls. As the instructor, I just do the academics- the evening supervision, meals, budget, etc. are all jobbed out.

There are always openings here to teach. School rules and expectations conflict with the independence given to children at home, so behavior is challenging especially in high school. Financially successful people here (as everywhere) are those who take personal initiative. There are jobs and opportunities here for those who want them.

5 things to bring if you are visiting Ft. Yukon in the winter: ice grippies for the bottom of your shoes, food unless you have lots of money for the store, a lined Carhardt jacket, a gun if you plan on walking out of town and a camera.

5 things to leave home if you are visiting Ft. Yukon in the winter: cell phone (sorry, no service), dress shoes, a suitcase with rollers, a makeup case and a bad attitude.

Also remember, there is no restaurant, hotel or bed and breakfast, so make sure you have a plan. See you there!

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